• Trip Diary: So This Is the Delta

    Trip Diary: So This Is the Delta

    The difference between Old Drift and Splash Camp can best be defined in two examples. First, Old Drift has a phone in the room, with a five digit number to reach the office if you need anything at all, at any time of the day or night. Splash Camp has no phones at all, including…

    Read More

  • Trip Diary: Where Are All the Elephants?

    Trip Diary: Where Are All the Elephants?

    The Lookout Cafe is the centerpiece of Wild Horizons’ empire of Victoria Falls tourist attractions. It’s a restaurant, but that’s a little bit like saying that Broadway-caliber dinner theater is a restaurant. At the Lookout Cafe, lunch is respectable, but it’s really all about the view.

    Read More

  • Trip Diary: Paying Calls

    Trip Diary: Paying Calls

    The first visit we made today was to a nearby Zimbabwean village. But it began with a stop at the supermarket in town. Some village tours in this area compensate their hosts by way of a monetary payment to the village chief. That isn’t how Old Drift does it. Instead, they first help you buy…

    Read More

  • Trip Diary: Tenderness in Warthogs

    Trip Diary: Tenderness in Warthogs

    There’s a line in an old Robert Heinlein book, in which the main character muses about the perfections of female humans, and then adds, “No doubt a gentleman warthog feels the same way about a lady warthog. But if so, both of us are very sincere.”

    Read More

  • Postcard: Birthday

    Postcard: Birthday

    Hippo Birdie (two) ME!!

    Read More

  • Trip Diary: Crocodiles and Rhinos

    Trip Diary: Crocodiles and Rhinos

    When I was very small, my father used to sing silly things to me, as many parents of small children do. One of his favorites was to sing the words “Heffalumps and Woozles,” from out of the Winnie the Pooh books, to the tune of “Politics and Poker,” from the Broadway musical “Fiorello!” I now…

    Read More

  • Trip Diary: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

    Trip Diary: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

    The bags were right there when I got back to the airport. I’ve never had such an easy time dealing with an administrative issue. I didn’t even have to give my name — the guy at the luggage desk took one look at me, obviously thought, “Oh right, the white lady who’s picking up this…

    Read More

  • Seattle to Johannesburg

    Seattle to Johannesburg

    It’s 5:30 in the morning, and I’m lying in bed feeling perfectly content as a baboon chatters outside my window. The birds have a great deal more to say

    Read More

  • Last Steps

    Last Steps

    Tomorrow afternoon, I’ll be on my way to Africa. It’s really hard to believe, after two and a half years of planning, that it’s happening NOW. I’m packed! Somehow, I have managed to pack everything I need for seven weeks and four different climates in two small, soft-sides suitcases and a carry-on backpack. The climates…

    Read More

  • Hitting a Wall

    Hitting a Wall

    Whoops! I’ve been racing around for the last two weeks, trying to get everything done in preparation for my Africa trip. Uganda visa forms (all my other countries, I can get a visa at the border, but Uganda needs an advance application), yellow fever vaccine (required for the Uganda visa), arranging sufficient medication with my…

    Read More